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Neapolitan Nativity Cribs

(vero;2024-Dec-06)

In Naples, it was a nice surprise to discover the Nativity Cribs (Presepi in Italian - singular: presepe) displayed in various museums and churches. They are real works of art and tell us the story of the Nativity in scenes full of details. They all follow a similar pattern:

The main characters are obviously the Virgin Mary, Joseph and the Baby Jesus framed by the ever present Ox and Donkey. There is often a guiding star shining above them and the scene (in Naples at least) is often set in Roman ruins with angels hovering above them, singing and playing heavenly music. Not far away and at the foot of the crib are the shepherds (lots of them) and the three wise men with their retinue of splendidly clad men and exotic animals (dromedaries and elephants). That's for the Nativity scene so far.

But it's not all. Next to it is always a village with typical scenes of daily life: people going about their business or enjoying themselves, eating and drinking. The tavern is the focal point, the innkeeper being a key figure, the symbol of the darkness of man: he was the one who refused a warm place to Mary when she was about to give birth, so that she had to deliver Jesus in a manger. All figurines are finely designed and very detailed, dressed with real clothes, it is simply magical.

The Presepi of Naples are most famous and Via San Gregorio Armeno in the historic centre is lined with shops selling handmade figurines ranging from traditional ones to very tacky ones, such as statuettes of Maradona, the Pope or Donald Trump (see the last photo of our gallery).

A presepe displayed in Naples' Royal Museum.

The dromedary is easy to spot. But have you seen the elephant?

A busy scene showing the retinue of the Three Wise Men. Have you noted the fountain and the man filling a pot with water while an other is waiting with an amphora?

Village scene at the inn. Find the dog and check the meat and the pork head hanging on the front of the house.

A huge presepe displayed in the Certosa (Charterhouse) di San Martino in Naples. This museum is home to many presepi, unfortunately difficult to photograph as they are dimly lit to protect them.

The village scene of the presepe in the Church of San Gaudioso (Naples) with the innkeeper in its centre.

Eating and drinking at the inn. The master of the house looks really grim indeed.

The presepe of Sorrento's cathedral. Vesuvius can be seen in the background through the hole in the rock.

Enjoying a meal at the inn, note the level of detail of the food displayed on the table.

Shepherds and some of the three wise men's retinue.

A shop in Via San Gregorio Armeno (Naples) selling some tacky and modern figurines. Can you name them all? Look for Che Guevara, Mark Zuckerberg, Maradona, Pelé, Freddy Mercury, Trump, Berlusconi (not sure…) and maybe Giorgia Meloni.

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