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GR34: The Côte d'Amour

(vero;2019-March-30)

We know the Côte d'Amour very well. Vero has spent many holidays there as a child and our family has now a flat in La Baule, so we spend a lot of time in the area.

Below are some pictures taken over the years and a Panoramic view of the Bay of La Baule.

We have walked this whole stretch of coast many times over the years and true to ourselves, we are more often there in the winter than in the summer (Map data ©2019 Google).

The big ships leaving the harbour and heading towards the open sea are a clear sign that we are approaching Saint-Nazaire.

Saint-Nazaire was a heavily contested city during WWII and the coast around is peppered with concrete blockhouses and casemates, remains of the Atlantic Wall built by the Germans to secure the French coast from a sea “invasion”. This one is covered with Saint-Nazaire-specific graffitis. The friendly little blue men are called Les Oides and are well-loved in the region. They can be found all over town and a bit further, even as far as Le Croisic.

Saint-Marc on the western outskirts of Saint-Nazaire has become famous thanks to Jacques Tati who chose this small seaside resort to shoot his cult film “Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot”. The beach front boasts a statue of the beloved Monsieur Hulot staring out at the sea, easily recognisable at his overcoat, hat and gangling silhouette.

The coast between Saint-Marc and Sainte-Marguerite is a succession of small beaches framed by rocky cliffs.

A close-up of the two pointy rocks seen on the previous picture reveals two cormorants soaking up the sun with their wings spread.

A room with a view. This picture is taken from an old casemate at the Pointe de Chémoulin between Saint-Marc and Sainte-Marguerite. Have you spotted the cheeky Oide watching out to the sea?

The coast between the Pointe de Chémoulin and Sainte-Marguerite. The Pointe de Penchâteau which ends the western side of the bay of La Baule can be seen in the distance.

Horse-rider on the huge sandy beach of Pornichet and La Baule. The French claim it as one of the most beautiful bays in the world with one of the longest beach in Europe running for 9 km from Pornichet to Pouliguen. Busy and brimming with holiday-makers in the summer, it is eerily empty in the winter and makes for great walking. See our panorama of the bay below this gallery.

The harbour of Le Pouliguen with the church in the background.

The so-called Côte Sauvage extends west from Le Pouliguen to Le Croisic. A very scenic walking path, coupled in places with a cycling path covers the whole distance close to the sea. A well-loved outing for tourists and locals alike.

A winter walk on the coastal path between Le Pouliguen and Batz-sur-Mer. You can spot the church tower of Batz-sur-Mer as a thin blurred vertical line over the line of trees and houses.

The same stretch of coast coming nearer to Batz-sur-Mer in the summer. The church tower of Batz is very recognisable and is a landmark in the whole area. Depending on the tide, one can walk this stretch either on the beach with some foraging in the rock pools on the way (as in this picture) or on the cliffs at high tide (as in the previous picture).

The small beach of Saint-Michel and its jetty in Batz-sur-Mer on a stormy winter day.

Thomas caught in the act and savouring some wild oysters on the spot.

Old coast guard refuge turned into a house near the Pointe du Croisic. It is located on the highest point of the Côte Sauvage.

This rock on the Côte Sauvage is aptly nicknamed “The Bear”.

The harbour of Le Croisic is still an active fisher harbour.

After Le Croisic, the coastal path veers inland through the salt marshes of Guérande before rejoining the sea in Pen Bron, just opposite Le Croisic.

The quaint small harbour of Lérat between La Turballe and Piriac-sur-Mer at low tide.

From Piriac to the mouth of the river Vilaine (Map data ©2019 Google).

The characteristic rock formation known as the “Tombeau d'Almanzor” between Lérat and the Pointe du Castelli. The legend goes that the Lord of Lauvergnac, called Almanzor, had gone on a crusade with the French king, Saint-Louis (died 1270 in Tunis from the pest). His wife Yseult came every day to the coast to await his return, scanning the waves for her husband's boat to appear. One day she finally spotted Almanzor's boat on the horizon but alas, a violent storm developed during the night and the boat sunk in the sea. Almanzor's body eventually drifted ashore, deposited by the tide at the very foot of a huge rock which according to legend opened up to swallow him as if in a tomb.

Arriving at the Pointe de la Croix in Quimiac.

Old coast guard house between Piriac and Quimiac.

Battered by the wind between Piriac and Quimiac.

Colourful rocks framing the bay of Pont-Mahé.

The wide bay of Pont-Mahé with its shallow water.

Between the Pointe du Bile and the beach of La Mine d'Or.

The coastal path between the Pointe du Bile and the beach of La Mine d'Or.

The beach of La Mine d'Or takes its name from gold mining which took place there between the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. The gold was not in a mine but in the sand in the form of flakes. Since washing tons of sand only allowed a small amount of gold to be extracted this was not a very successful venture and it stopped at the beginning of WWI.

Close-up of the rock structure at the beach of La Mine d'Or.

Panoramic view of the Bay of La Baule

The view taken on a bright winter day encompasses Le Pouliguen on the left and Pornichet on the right. The gap in the middle is the Avenue du Général de Gaulle. Click on the panorama to open a larger version in a separate tab. Click again to activate scrolling in the full picture.

Go back to GR34: The West or go on to The Côte d'Albâtre at Étretat or to Landscapes or go up to Photos

$updated from: Along Brittany's Coastal Path.htxt Mon 04 Mar 2024 16:04:47 trvl2 (By Vero and Thomas Lauer)$