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North Pembrokeshire

(vero;2021-May-03)

We were so pleased with our visit to South Pembrokeshire in 2019 that we decided to spend another week in Pembrokeshire in April 2021 with the aim of exploring the northern coast. We based ourselves at the foot of the Preseli Hills (south side), a good choice which enabled us to spend a day in the hills and was not too far from the coast. We walked a bit of the coast path every day, covering the distance between Carreg Onnen Bay (west of Strumble Head) and Mwnt (east of Cardigan) twice, in both directions, as we always had to go back to our car at the end of the day. We were extremely lucky with the weather; our last day was the only one with overcast skies, so we took the car and drove to St David's where the weather was sunnier. We visited the site (unfortunately the cathedral was closed for sight-seeing because of Covid-19 restrictions) and we enjoyed a good walk along the coast to Maen Bachau on the Treginnis Peninsula. The path led us through the towns of Fishguard, Newport and Cardigan: we enjoyed the harbour of Fishguard and the sight of the daily ferry to Ireland, Cardigan was a very pleasant little town, and Newport was the only one with a nice beach, a welcome stretch of flat walking after all the wild ups and downs of this part of the coast.

The hill of Foel Drygarn (363 m) with the remains of an iron age hill fort on its top. We were based at the foot of the Preseli Hills, near the Gors Fawr Stone Circle and walked around the moor, following the ridge eastwards past many rugged rocks and summits to reach it. The ruggedness of the terrain gave this part of the hills their nickname of Dragon's Back.

The Preseli Hills are full of megalithic monuments, cairns, dolmens and stone circles. We saw this proud standing stone on the ridge as we walked back to our base. Did you know that the "blue stones" used in the construction of the megalithic site of Stonehenge in Wiltshire (weighing between three and four tons each) have been identified as originating from the Preseli Hills?

Goodwick to Carreg Onnen Bay: view of the Pen Anglas headland north of Goodwick. The small brick building houses the harbour fog siren of Fishguard. Dinas Head can be seen in the distance.

Goodwick to Carreg Onnen Bay: the coastline on the way to Carregwastad Point. The last bay is Aber Felin.

Goodwick to Carreg Onnen Bay: the memorial for the French landing of 1797 at Carregwastad Point. This operation was thought by the French revolutionary forces as a diversion to a planned landing of 15,000 French troops in Ireland to suppport the United Irishmen in their rebellion against British authority. It turned out to be a quite shameful affair for the French and is dubbed the last invasion of mainland Britain. Read the Wikipedia article about the Battle of Fishguard for the whole story.

Goodwick to Carreg Onnen Bay: at Carregwastad Point, looking back in the direction of Fishguard with Aber Felin in the foreground.

Goodwick to Carreg Onnen Bay: the flashing lighthouse at Strumble Head. We could see its light as far away as Cemaes Head.

Fishguard to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: view of the coast with Dinas Head in the distance, its summit Pen-y-Fan culminating at 142m.

Fishguard to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: looking back on Fishguard Bay from the top of Dinas Head with the white Stena line ferry to Ireland in the harbour.

Fishguard to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: remains of the church at Cwm-Yr-Eglwys. It suffered from heavy storms in 1850 and 1851 before getting the final blow by the Great Storm of 1859 which removed the church roof and damaged the walls, leading to the definitive abandonment of the building.

Cwm-Yr-Eglwys to Fishguard: looking back on Dinas Head.

Newport to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: view over a wave cut platform at Aber Ysgol and past Penrhyn Y Fforest to Morfa Head.

Newport to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: the cove of Aber Fforest.

Newport to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: looking back to Dinas Head and the Needle, a rock slightly off its shore and frequented by birds in the nesting season.

Newport to Cwm-Yr-Eglwys: view to Newport Bay and Morfa Head.

Newport to Cemaes Head: view to the east from near Foel Goch along the coast to Cemaes Head

Ceibwr Bay to Cemaes Head: the impressive geological structure of Cemaes Head.

Ceibwr Bay to Cemaes Head: photo shot against the sun looking back to the coast in the west.

Deep drop down the sea from the path, colourful flowers carpeting the slopes.

Cardigan: the bridge over the river Teifi, the big square buildings are old warehouses.

Cardigan to Mwnt: the Pembroke Coast Path ends in Cardigan but we continued for one day along the Ceredigion Coast Path to Mwnt.

Cardigan to Mwnt: looking back on Cardigan Island.

View from the summit above Mwnt down to Traeth y Mwnt and the coast path leading back to Cardigan.

View back to Cardigan Island from the summit above Mwnt. If you look closely at the horizon you will spot the white Stena line ferry sailing to Ireland in the far distance.

View to the east from the summit above Mwnt. The antennas of MOD Aberporth can be seen on the next headland.

The small church of the Holy Cross at Mwnt.

Mwnt: a hopeful seagull waiting for scraps of our picnic.

Many Welsh tombstones are beautiful, such as this one in the graveyard of the Holy Cross Church at Mwnt.

St David's: overall view of the cathedral with the ruins of the Bishop's Palace in the background.

St David's: the entrance porch to the cathedral. Saint David, patron Saint of Wales, was buried in the cathedral and the city developed into an important pilgrimage centre in Wales, contributing to its wealth.

St David's to Ramsey Sound: on the coastal path, looking back to the west.

St David's to Ramsey Sound: Porthlysgi Bay and Ramsey Island in the background. The water body between the headland and the island is Ramsey Sound.

St David's to Ramsey Sound: the sky over Porthlysgi Bay and Ramsey Island in the background.

St David's to Ramsey Sound: view over Ramsey Sound to Carn Llidi on St David's Head

St David's to Ramsey Sound: coastline past St Justinian's and its lifeboat station to St David's Head with Carn Llidi in the distance

Go back to South Pembrokeshire or go on to Mid-Wales or go up to Pembrokeshire